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hj-x cell

The hj-x cell is the hydrogen junkie experimental cell designed for people interested in water as fuel technology. we at hydrogen junkie do the tedious and not so fun work of building the cell so you can concentrate on the real life experiments i .e. vehicles installation and testing, applying various power, pulses, electrolyte, etc.


what we do for you is:

          cut the tubes to size (tubes are 5.5 inches long 304 stainless steel .035 wall. Starting from the inside electrode out. center electrode is 316 stainless steel all-thread ½-13, then tube size is:0.750, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2.0

          debur tubes and sand inside and outside with 36 grit (by sanding the tubes it creates more surface area for more gas production)

. machine cap to evenly space electrodes
. assemble electrodes in a ABS housing

. leak test cell for 15 minute while applying power

. provide electrical connectors with 3 feet of 12 gage wire
. modify safety cap with gas output

hy-x experimental cell     5 in stock: $130.00

hydrogen junkie's suggested Instalation/Spects


Electrolyte:  For starters, we offer these recommendations so you don’t have to pick up where we started. Sodium hydroxyl (Lye) should be mixed with distilled water (2.5ml of lye to 1 liter of water) for an electrolyzer.  This will ensure your cell won't exceed 160F and pull more than 6 amps. Distilled water will be the best solution for less corrosion and longer lasting plates due to the lack of impurities in the water. Tap water can be used but not all tap water is equal and may contain impurities that will shorten the life of the electrodes. We recommend using the Lye because not only does it act as a great electrolyte, but there are no harmful by-products when used in the electrolyzer.  Something that needs to be made aware is that once the hydrogen is produced from the electrolyte, there is a small presence of lye in the hydroxyl gas. If not properly filtered there is a risk of corrosion to the aluminum parts in your engine. For the safety of your engine we recommend that the gas be filtered through a bubbler.  To assure that your aluminum parts are being protected from these chemicals we recommend that it be further filtered through a proper micron filter (These will soon be available on our parts page.)

Power:  For the amount of surface area on the hj-x, the recommended amperage is no more than 8. What you want to do is start your system cold at no more than 1.5 amps.  As the unit warms up you will notice that the amps will begin to climb.  In our testing we found that with the correct electrolyte mixture, once the cell is warm, the amperage leveled out around 8 amps.  A great way to adjust your amperage is to use a PWM(These will soon be available on our parts page).  Using anything over 8 amps may cause the cell to over heat and can cause the top cap to melt.  Another reason that keeping the amps under 8  is beneficial is for less vaporization of the water to steam. 
For the best results, we recomend that the these be used on engines no more than 3 liters, although we have had good results on a few 4.3 liter engines. 

Electrical: Very important: If you are making your own cables, please note that all connections should be soldered, not just crimped as to ensure a secure connection.
 Connect the wire from coming from pin 86 on the relay, to a point in your vehicle's electrical system which has a 12V (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNIG (Position 2 of the ignition switch), such as the starter solenoid, fuel pump relay, or similar circuit.We recommend using the fuel pump relay. Locate the fuel pump relay and then identify the heavy wire that gets 12 volts for a second when you turn on the key or the wire that stays on when the motor starts and use it to control the 30 amp relay to your booster.

After hooking up all the wires as shown above, test for voltage between the center terminal of the hydrogen generator and the side of the container, with the engine running.  You should have around 14 volts. Then check for voltage when the engine is not running.  You should now have 0 volts. In this way, we ensure that the booster is producing hydroxy ONLY when the engine is running. (That prevents putting an excess amount of hydroxy into the engine intake which could explode and blow the air filter housing off in case of a backfire, when starting the engine)

 

If your car has an On-Board Diagnostic computer (i.e. most cars after 1994 with OBD-I or ODB-II), then after installation and before the engine is started up, remove the negative side of the battery cable from the battery and touch it to the positive side of the battery, as this will clean the computer. Hold the connection for 1 full minute! (Alternatively, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery for 1 hour.  20 minutes will do, but 1 hour to make sure)  Note that if you have a vehicle that are radio security code equipped, you will need to re-enter the code, so make sure you have this code before resetting the computer!

(WARNING: If you have a capacitor for the stereo or any other device, you must disconnect it first. Otherwise, you will likely damage your ECU or any other on-board computer)

Resetting the OBD computer in this way, will allow it to learn a new fuel curve based on the presence of the hydroxy mix.

detailed relay connection
Contact Us
(p) jerome   805.801.2252          jayson   805.215.8251
(e)
info@hydrogenjunkie.com

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